The long-awaited HUMAN 81 DK is now available.
Best viewed in "landscape" mode.
Speaker Repair
Base Price List
Repairs of other brands are a secondary service.
| Nominal diameter | Refoaming | Reconing | |
| 6.5" (and smaller) | $40.00 | $72.00 | |
| 8" | $50.00 | $84.00 | |
| 10" (and 6" x 9") | $60.00 | $96.00 | |
| 12" | $72.00 | $108.00 | |
| 15" | $84.00 | $130.00 | |
| 18" | $96.00 | $150.00 | |
| Butyl surrounds for any of the above | $7.00 | (and up, as available) |
The above pricing is nominal. Treating rusty frames, listed below, is an increasingly common requirement.
Tediously scraping glues used by some manufacturers that remain "gooey" to this day is going to show you one of the reasons I make you do it!
PA and musical instrument speakers usually cost more, sometimes even doubling the nominal price above, depending on the cost of parts (and strangeness of assembly techniques).
Other Charges
| Labor | $120.00 / hour |
| Labor with travel | $1080.00 / day (plus expenses) |
| Labor involving a weekend (in any way) | Time and a half |
| Remove and reinstall (or replace) parts | Roughly $10.00 each - this is based on it usually taking four or five minutes per part |
| Testing | Varies, charged by the clock; included on all completed work, obviously |
| Shipping (inbound) | $28.00 (and up) for special order parts |
| Treat and paint rusty frames | $15.00 (and up) each |
| Magnet structure service | $120.00 (and up) |
| Minimum charge increment | Quarter hour |
Here are some tips for scraping old foam - and more importantly, glue - from the basket:
Remove the parts from the cabinet by undoing the fasteners, and sometimes prying gently to separate the basket from where it has been for forty or fifty years.
Take a photo or careful notes of the way the wires are attached. They are usually held with solderless connectors, wires are color-coded for polarity.
Back in the holes they came from is a great place to store the screws or bolts so you don't lose them.
There might be a plastic or metal trim ring on the front to be removed first. Some can be quite finicky.
Set yourself up comfortably in good light on a surface that can take a beating, with something to catch scrap bits as they come off.
Don't use chemicals to try to soften the glues - there are other glued joints nearby we do not want to disrupt.
Go slowly and carefully with a chisel or utility knife, whatever feels safe to handle. Never push a blade in the direction of your flesh.
Once you get started, once you get the hang of removing some, it's just a lot of repetition. You'll probably go two or three times around to clean up leftovers after the main pass.
Be very gentle at the cone. The old material usually comes off a lot easier there, and you don't want to harm the cone itself with your sharp tools. It may seem delicate, and it probably is. Just work very slowly and carefully. Sometime the old foam can literally be rubbed off with your fingers, leaving a surface clean and smooth enough to glue the new surround to.
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EPI and Epicure - Genesis Physics
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7 Kelsey Road, Lee, New Hampshire 03861
Prices can change and specifications will improve without notice